Bündner Herrschaft: the holy trinity

In this second article in our series on Bündner Herrschaft, I would like to focus on wineries that I consider staples of the region. A holy trinity of sorts, they are dear to me because they have managed to steer their wines under two clear considerations: making wines that are representative of the vintage while maintaining a distinctive patina and identity.

While sometimes difficult to find, you can purchase their wines through selective retailers around the world. They are also fairly priced, though this is a discussion for another article in the series. Finally, all three wineries have mastered red wines (with a natural emphasis on Pinot Noir), while also producing excellent whites. More recently, all of them have started to produce sparkling wines, which remain a well-kept secret and worth seeking out.

Weingut Wegelin

The winery is located on the eastern side of the appellation, in Malans. They produce approximately 40,000 bottles per year, divided between red and white wines. The estate is family-run by the Wegelin family, who have gradually refined their approach over the years, with a strong emphasis on vineyard expression and precision in the cellar.

In recent years, there has been a clear focus on single-vineyard bottlings and careful clone selection. This has resulted in wines of notable depth, structure, and a subtle saline edge that gives them a quiet tension.

I shall particularly mention Bothmarhalde, a site producing an outstanding Chardonnay alongside a remarkably composed Pinot Noir. Another curiosity is their Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from Scadena, which is arguably one of the finest expressions of the variety in Switzerland, if not beyond. A serious wine, defined more by clarity than weight.

The Wegelin family’s approach remains understated and site-driven, allowing each vineyard to speak without excessive stylistic imprint. It is this restraint that gives the wines their identity and calm precision.

Weingut Wegelin
Scadenaweg 1
CH-7208 Malans

Malans, Switzerland, 2026.

Weingut Fromm

Not far from Wegelin is Fromm, managed by Michel Fromm and his family. They produce approximately 50,000 bottles per year from a modern winery situated south of the village.

Here, the focus is clearly on Pinot Noir, with seven different bottlings. There is a village Pinot Noir, which serves as an excellent introduction to the estate’s style, followed by six single-vineyard crus from distinct plots. The wines are fresh and fruit-driven, showing immediate charm rather than austerity — there is a distinct smile-in-the-glass quality that naturally calls for a second pour.

It is difficult to establish a single hierarchy, as each cuvée plays its own role depending on context and mood. Nonetheless, Michel (ma belle) has my deepest appreciation. The estate is also extremely welcoming, and a visit is highly recommended. And do not forget to try their schnapps and gins, which carry the same playful precision as the wines.

Weingut Fromm
Baguggiweg 21
7208 Malans

Malans, Switzerland, 2026.

Weingut Adank

The last winery is Adank, located in Fläsch on the western side of the appellation. They produce approximately 45,000 bottles per year. I have visited the estate several times over the years and have always been struck by the precision and clarity of their wines.

They offer a strong range of white wines, which are textbook expressions of their respective varieties. A bottle of their Sauvignon Blanc gives exactly what one expects: crisp acidity, pronounced gooseberry notes, and a long, mineral-driven finish that feels both linear and composed.

They have also produced a single-plot Pinot Noir called Spondis, which for me is one of the finest examples from the entire Bündner Herrschaft. Its ageing potential is remarkable. One often expects Swiss Pinot Noir to fade relatively quickly, yet I have tasted bottles more than a decade old that were still remarkably youthful, still defined by red-fruited clarity rather than evolution.

More recently, they have introduced another single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Herrenacker, continuing this precise, site-focused trajectory.

Weingut Familie Hansruedi Adank
St. Luzi 3
7306 Fläsch

The best way to discover these wines is to visit the region. Unlike Burgundy, visits can still be easily arranged in Bündner Herrschaft. On your way from Weingut Wegelin to Adank, you should stop at the famous Alte Torkel in Jenins. They offer one of the best wine lists in the area, paired with excellent food.

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Bündner Herrschaft: A Well-Kept Secret