Südsteiermark: The Winemakers

In the previous article, we looked at why Südsteiermark has become one of Europe’s most exciting wine regions: its history, its unique climate and its obsession with origin. But wine regions are ultimately defined by people, not maps. If the area enjoys the reputation it does today, it’s because a handful of producers spent decades proving that Sauvignon Blanc, Morillon and the region’s steep vineyards could stand alongside the world’s best.

There are many excellent estates in Südsteiermark, but three names consistently sit at the top of the conversation. Each has its own philosophy, yet together they have shaped the modern identity of the region.

Tement

If one winery put Südsteiermark on the international map, it is Tement. The estate’s story began in 1959 with just a couple of hectares around Zieregg. Everything changed in 1976, when sixteen-year-old Manfred Tement unexpectedly took over after his father’s death. Convinced that Sauvignon Blanc was the grape best suited to the region, he focused relentlessly on quality at a time when many still viewed Styrian wine as a simple local product. Today, the estate is run by the second generation, with Armin and Stefan Tement continuing the family’s work.

The winery now farms around 100 hectares, roughly 80 in Austria and 20 across the border in Slovenia, where the family established Domaine Ciringa. This is more than a curiosity. Their flagship vineyard, Zieregg, literally straddles the Austrian-Slovenian border, continuing seamlessly into Slovenia as Ciringa. The geology pays little attention to political boundaries, and neither does the family’s philosophy. Farming both sides of the same hillside has given Tement a unique understanding of how subtle changes in exposure and elevation shape the wines.

While the estate produces an impressive range, it is the various Zieregg bottlings that have consistently impressed me over the years. Rather than releasing a single expression, Tement has chosen to bottle different parcels separately, allowing each wine to showcase a distinct face of this remarkable vineyard. These are not wines built for immediate gratification. In their youth they can feel restrained, even austere, but time reveals extraordinary depth, precision and a mineral backbone that ranks among the finest expressions of Sauvignon Blanc anywhere. These are bottles to forget in the cellar for a few years before bringing them to the table alongside good food.

Weingut Tement
Zieregg 13
8461 Berghausen

Weingut Tement, ⁨Ehrenhausen an der Weinstraße⁩, ⁨Austria⁩, 2024

Polz

Few names are as closely associated with Südsteiermark as Polz. Based in Grassnitzberg near Spielfeld, the family has been making wine for generations, but it was Erich and Walter Polz who transformed the estate into one of Austria’s benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc.

Today the winery cultivates around 70 hectares, with holdings in some of the region’s finest vineyards, including Grassnitzberg, Obegg and Hochgrassnitzberg. Alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Polz has also earned a deserved reputation for Morillon, proving that Südsteiermark’s limestone and marl soils are capable of producing exceptional Chardonnay as well.

Visiting Polz is an experience in itself. The portfolio is remarkably broad, with wines covering almost every price point, yet quality remains consistently high throughout the range. It is one of those estates where you can confidently order almost any bottle from a wine list and know you’ll enjoy it.

The highlight for me is the Große STK Ried Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc. It perfectly illustrates a modern approach to élevage, where oak is used to support the wine rather than dominate it. The result is beautifully balanced, approachable even in its youth, yet structured enough to age gracefully.

After the tasting, there is no better place to continue than Polz Buschenschank, located right next to the winery. It serves excellent Styrian cuisine, and the wines seem even more at home once paired with the local dishes.

Weingut Polz
Am Graßnitzberg 39
8472 Straß in Steiermark

‎⁨Weingut Gross⁩⁩, ⁨Ehrenhausen an der Weinstraße⁩, ⁨Austria⁩, 2026.

Gross

If Tement represents power and Polz consistency, Gross perhaps best captures the elegance of Südsteiermark.

Based in Ratsch an der Weinstraße, the family has cultivated vines for more than a century, focusing on some of the region’s finest single vineyards, including Nussberg, Perz and Riedenberg. Today the estate farms around 50 hectares, producing wines that consistently rank among Austria’s finest.

Like Tement, the Gross family’s story extends beyond Austria. Brother Michael Gross established Vino Gross just across the border in Slovenia, a reminder that southern Styria remains one continuous wine landscape despite the political frontier.

Naturally, Sauvignon Blanc occupies centre stage, but the biggest surprise during our tasting came from a different variety altogether: the Große STK Ried Nussberg Weissburgunder.

Pinot Blanc can be a difficult grape to love. Much like its cousin Pinot Gris, it often produces wines that are broad, heavy and, occasionally, a little uninspiring. Not here. Gross transforms it into something remarkably vibrant, combining freshness with a pronounced saline character and a finish that seems almost endless. There is real power, but it never feels heavy. Instead, the wine carries itself with elegance and precision, quietly demonstrating that Südsteiermark’s greatness extends well beyond Sauvignon Blanc. It was, perhaps unexpectedly, one of the wines that stayed with me long after the tasting.

Gross-Weingut am Nussberg
Ratsch 26
8461 Ehrenhausen

Ehrenhausen an der Weinstraße⁩, ⁨Austria⁩, 2026.

These three producers make wines in noticeably different styles, yet they share the same conviction: Südsteiermark is a place where origin matters above everything else. Their vineyards are farmed by hand, their best wines come from individual sites rather than blends, and every bottle reflects decades of work spent understanding some of Europe’s steepest and most demanding vineyards.

If you only have time to discover three names from Südsteiermark, start here. They’ll give you three different interpretations of the region, but together they explain why this small corner of Austria has become one of Europe’s most compelling wine destinations. Next time, we’ll leave the wineries behind and head into the Buschenschänke, where Styrian wine culture truly comes to life.